Wednesday, September 5, 2012
Fair in the Park
Posted by Susan Lesczynski on 11:21 AM
There is a fair in the park this weekend at Mellon Park downtown. The fair will be this weekend starting at 1pm on Friday. There will be art vendors, entertainment, and food for you and your family to enjoy.
For more information see A Fair in the Park.
Wednesday, August 29, 2012
RUNSHADYSIDE 5K and Family Fun Walk
Posted by Susan Lesczynski on 10:14 AM
Make sure to participate in the RUNSHADYSIDE 5K and Family Fun Walk. Proceeds benefit the Boys and Girls Club of Shadyside. Registration is open now, but the event will be held October 6th. The race is described as "... a fast-moving house tour. Paved, tree-lined streets, with a start at Walnut and Bellefonte." Make sure to go to http://www.runshadyside.com/ to register for the event.
Saturday, August 25, 2012
Bakery Square Beach Party Tonight
Posted by Susan Lesczynski on 11:37 AM
Enjoy a free big beachy bash at Bakery Square, with fun in the sun on a white sand beach in the heart of the East End. the event features live music by Mace Ballard & Revolution Radio, cold brews, the FUZE 20 foot water slide, beachy games, boardwalk-style treats and more! Proceeds benefit Riverlife.
Saturday, August 18, 2012
Saturday, August 4, 2012
Installing New Gutters
Posted by Susan Lesczynski on 1:58 PM
It seems like there is always something to do when it comes to fixing up your home. Replacing your gutters usually isn't at the top of your list. This often-overlooked project seems challenging, but DoItYourself.com has you covered with instructions.
From DoItYourself.com
1. Map Out Your Gutter Run. Before you make any gutter purchases, make a map of your home, and of the current gutter system that is installed. Determine the length of the gutter run, how many downspouts your system will require, and how long those downspouts will need to be. If your old gutter system worked well, you may find it easiest to simply copy that exact system and replace it with a new one, keeping the old downspouts in the same area, etc. Write out all of your measurements and needed items, prior to leaving for the local hardware store.
2. Chalk It Up. If your gutter run is 35 feet or less, the highest point of your run is going to be at one end, and it will then slope downwards to where the downspout is. Look for the high point to be an inch down from the top of the fascia (this is the board that the gutters are attached to). The slope should ideally be 1/4 inch for every 10 feet of gutter run.
If the run is more than 35 feet in length, you will find that the high point will be at the center of the run, with slopes leading to the downspouts on either side. Once again, you should discover that the high point will be located an inch down from the top of the fascia and the slopes should be gradient with a 1/4 inch slope for every 10 feet. Having someone hold one end of the gutter, you should hold the other at the appropriate angle and snap a chalk like so that you will have a guide to follow when you go to put up the new gutters.
3. Install Downspout Outlets. Using 1 1/4 inch deck screws, attach your downspout outlets. Even with the chalk line and attaching at the end of the house, these outlets will be close to but not at the extreme end of the run (remember that the roof extends out over the house). Ensure that these are firmly attached and then move on to the next step.
4. Hang the Gutter Hangers. The gutter hangers should be attached to the fascia every 24 inches using the 1 1/4 inch deck screws. Fastened about 1 inch away from the ends of the roof, these hangers offer the gutters a form of support. Make sure that you leave room at the ends of the supports for the gutter caps and also ensure that you have followed the chalk line, in order to maintain the proper angles.
5. Cover the Gutter Corners. If your corners don't have a downspout and aren't located at the end of the run, you will want to cover these joints with gutter covers. These will prevent water from leaking out where it should not, preventing unnecessary damage and prolonging the life of your gutters.
6. Cutting Gutters. Using a hacksaw, carefully cut your gutter sections so that they fit between the downspout outlet and the end of your roof. Put the cap over the end and snap the section into the outlet for the downspout, then hook the gutter onto the hangers. Remember that your gutter sections start from the middle of the downspout outlet and be sure to follow your chalk lines.
7. Bring It Together. From the ground, connect your gutter sections. This is a very simple step - using special connectors, these sections will easily match up and then will just snap into the gutter sections. For best results, have someone to help you support the gutters as you hang them.
8. The Drain Pipes. For your downspouts, you will want to cut a piece of drainpipe so that it will fit between the downspout elbow joint on the outlet and the one on the wall. Putting the elbows on the pipe, then snap it onto the outlet and, using a drainpipe hanger, be sure to secure the other elbow onto the wall. Then cut another piece of drainpipe, this one designed to fit between the wall elbow and hang down to approximately one foot above the ground. Snap the drain pipe into the wall and then attach another new elbow joint down by the ground. Fasten a hanger for your drain pipe here and, after cutting an appropriate length of pipe, attach it to this joint to funnel the water away from the side of your home (this piece may be as long or as short as you would like).
Hanging gutters may seem like a perplexing and difficult home repair but, when these easy tips are followed, the job is surprisingly simple and can easily be accomplished in a short amount of time. For best results and for safety's sake, it's always best to have someone work with you. In fact, the light weight materials make this a good family project that can be accomplished over a weekend. Give it a try - it's easy!
Read more: http://www.doityourself.com/stry/installnewgutters#ixzz22hvUUjPK
From DoItYourself.com
1. Map Out Your Gutter Run. Before you make any gutter purchases, make a map of your home, and of the current gutter system that is installed. Determine the length of the gutter run, how many downspouts your system will require, and how long those downspouts will need to be. If your old gutter system worked well, you may find it easiest to simply copy that exact system and replace it with a new one, keeping the old downspouts in the same area, etc. Write out all of your measurements and needed items, prior to leaving for the local hardware store.
2. Chalk It Up. If your gutter run is 35 feet or less, the highest point of your run is going to be at one end, and it will then slope downwards to where the downspout is. Look for the high point to be an inch down from the top of the fascia (this is the board that the gutters are attached to). The slope should ideally be 1/4 inch for every 10 feet of gutter run.
If the run is more than 35 feet in length, you will find that the high point will be at the center of the run, with slopes leading to the downspouts on either side. Once again, you should discover that the high point will be located an inch down from the top of the fascia and the slopes should be gradient with a 1/4 inch slope for every 10 feet. Having someone hold one end of the gutter, you should hold the other at the appropriate angle and snap a chalk like so that you will have a guide to follow when you go to put up the new gutters.
3. Install Downspout Outlets. Using 1 1/4 inch deck screws, attach your downspout outlets. Even with the chalk line and attaching at the end of the house, these outlets will be close to but not at the extreme end of the run (remember that the roof extends out over the house). Ensure that these are firmly attached and then move on to the next step.
4. Hang the Gutter Hangers. The gutter hangers should be attached to the fascia every 24 inches using the 1 1/4 inch deck screws. Fastened about 1 inch away from the ends of the roof, these hangers offer the gutters a form of support. Make sure that you leave room at the ends of the supports for the gutter caps and also ensure that you have followed the chalk line, in order to maintain the proper angles.
5. Cover the Gutter Corners. If your corners don't have a downspout and aren't located at the end of the run, you will want to cover these joints with gutter covers. These will prevent water from leaking out where it should not, preventing unnecessary damage and prolonging the life of your gutters.
6. Cutting Gutters. Using a hacksaw, carefully cut your gutter sections so that they fit between the downspout outlet and the end of your roof. Put the cap over the end and snap the section into the outlet for the downspout, then hook the gutter onto the hangers. Remember that your gutter sections start from the middle of the downspout outlet and be sure to follow your chalk lines.
7. Bring It Together. From the ground, connect your gutter sections. This is a very simple step - using special connectors, these sections will easily match up and then will just snap into the gutter sections. For best results, have someone to help you support the gutters as you hang them.
8. The Drain Pipes. For your downspouts, you will want to cut a piece of drainpipe so that it will fit between the downspout elbow joint on the outlet and the one on the wall. Putting the elbows on the pipe, then snap it onto the outlet and, using a drainpipe hanger, be sure to secure the other elbow onto the wall. Then cut another piece of drainpipe, this one designed to fit between the wall elbow and hang down to approximately one foot above the ground. Snap the drain pipe into the wall and then attach another new elbow joint down by the ground. Fasten a hanger for your drain pipe here and, after cutting an appropriate length of pipe, attach it to this joint to funnel the water away from the side of your home (this piece may be as long or as short as you would like).
Hanging gutters may seem like a perplexing and difficult home repair but, when these easy tips are followed, the job is surprisingly simple and can easily be accomplished in a short amount of time. For best results and for safety's sake, it's always best to have someone work with you. In fact, the light weight materials make this a good family project that can be accomplished over a weekend. Give it a try - it's easy!
Read more: http://www.doityourself.com/stry/installnewgutters#ixzz22hvUUjPK
Saturday, July 21, 2012
Exterior Repainting Tips and Techniques
Posted by Susan Lesczynski on 1:20 PM
Thanks to Doityourself.com for these painting tips.
Remember: A coat of fresh paint will not glue down a coat of old paint that's ready to crack and fall off.
Paints are common coatings used on wood and provide the most protection. Latex-based paints and stains are water borne, and oil or alkyd paints are solvent borne. Paints are used for aesthetic purposes, to protect the wood surface from weathering and to conceal certain defects. Paints are applied to the wood surface and do not penetrate it deeply. The wood grain is completely obscured, and a surface film is formed. This surface film can blister or peel if the wood is wetted or if inside water vapor moves through the house wall and wood siding because of the absence of a vapor barrier.
Read more: http://www.doityourself.com/stry/exttips#ixzz21I1oFZ3i
Saturday, July 14, 2012
Tips for Preparing a Room for Painting
Posted by Susan Lesczynski on 2:25 PM
DoItYourself.com is one of my favorite websites. They offer tips on all types of projects around the house. These projects are a great way to raise the value of your house. Here's a great article I found for inexperienced painters!
The steps involved in preparing a room for painting include the following:
- Remove as much furniture from the room as possible, and move the remaining furniture to the center of the room. Cover the remaining furniture with a drop cloth, and use removable masking tape around any moldings, doors and windows. Use drop cloths to protect the floors.
- Cover the smoke detector with a plastic bag, and turn off any heating or air conditioning to prepare for the sanding and painting.
- Scrape or sand any loose or flaking paint using sandpaper or a paint scraper. Scrape down to the bare surface if needed.
- Use a putty knife to fill any nail or screw holes with a good quality spackling compound. Fill any cracks with caulking.
- If the woodwork is seriously damaged it may be necessary to apply epoxy filler, like the filler used on car bodies.
Read more: http://www.doityourself.com/stry/prepareroomforpaint#ixzz20dOqPtWp
